Okay, to start with this post probably should have been called the wonders of Heraklion, but Heraklion is in Crete so, there you go! Considering I had a singular vision of what Crete would be before I left, I’m super happy that I went. Crete (or the Heraklion area) is worth your travel time.
Getting my butt to Crete!
When I was planning my trip around the islands I wanted to use the ferry to go everywhere. That turned out to be way to time consuming for the time I had blocked out. I ended up flying into Santorini, but I caught the ferry from there south to Crete. Negotiating the ferry ticketing and dock area was super easy. Like hang out and drink some beers before you leave easy. The ferry from Santorini to Crete was a straight shot and lasted a couple hours.
The ferry system has well maintained vessels with plenty of amenities to occupy your time while you travel.
Understanding what time you’re actually getting into town!
Picking the one time available for the high-speed ferry on the day I wanted to leave for Crete, I didn’t really stop to ponder what time the ferry would get into the port of Heraklion. In retrospect, it might have been wise to do so beforehand.
I walked off the ferry ramp onto a poorly light and empty landing area. We were the last ferry of the day and everyone who worked there had basically gone home for the night. And, I do mean almost everybody. The guy that raised and lowered the ramp was still there, and a guy with a traffic wand directing the cars out of the area. That was about it. There was nobody at the taxi stand. There was no one at the bus stop. Everyone walking off the ferry, like I was, just disappeared out into the city darkness.
At first, a walk across a foreign city in the dark didn’t seem appealing. But with no taxis kicking around, it was a necessity. To my happiness, the walk was quiet and uneventful. I made my way from the port across town to my hotel in about 20 minutes, unbothered by the city’s nighttime traffic. Even the sketchy side streets were quiet, the people I encountered off on their own affairs.
Things to do in Heraklion.
The city is a primary entryway onto Crete, and a modern city. Even considering the city’s ancient roots, it feels much more a modern entity. But, getting out and walking around will put you in touch with it’s many pleasant wonders. Following are the things that I found interesting during my 3 days of wanderings.
The Palace of Knossos.
The majority of day tripping cruise ship people know Crete for one thing. To be honest, the Palace of Knossos was the primary reason that I ventured to the island.
The Palace complex lies outside the city of Heraklion. It’s easy to get to, heavily trafficked, and impressive. Since I plan to cover it in the next post, I’ll give you a picture and move on for now.
Enjoying the street scenes in the old town.
The area of the city sweeping uphill from the old port is the old part of Heraklion. As with many “old towns” the area is a congestion of small streets and shops. The whole area is interspersed with statues, churches, and historical buildings. Wandering the side streets you’ll find quiet cafes and bars separated by street art and other interesting sights. Walking the many small side streets is definitely time well spent.
The old port.
One of the gems of Heraklion is the area around the old port and harbor. A collection of structures in various states of disrepair that ages from the Greeks all the way up to the Middle Ages. Old Roman dry docks on land show the old waterline of the harbor. The outer edge and breakwater give a sense for its size in antiquity.
The defensive fortress sitting about halfway out along the breakwater harkens back to the days when things weren’t as calm as they are today. The fortress’s canons have an unobstructed line of fire out into the waters of the Aegean.
The fortress is well worth both the walk out to it, and the price of admission (which is cheap enough). There are nice exhibits and a documentary film to go along with commanding views.
The Archeological Museum.
As expected of anywhere in Greece, Heraklion has a well appointed archeological museum. The institution hosts a large and varied collection of objects from both Crete and surrounding islands.
Being located north of the old town area, the museum is a quick bus ride up the hill. Make your way there early, as those that don’t go to Knossos go to the museum. It can fill up quickly after mid-morning. On the way out of the museum take a little time and hang out in the museum atrium. The light breeze from the hilltop and the shade of the trees is refreshing.
The Historical Museum of Crete.
A block or so from the waterfront you’ll find a small unassuming building that looks more like someone’s house than a museum. With a boutique gift shop area and ticket counter inside the front door, the museum turns into a multilevel story of Heraklion’s past years. A series of close hallways and tight stairways guide you up three stories. The collection is small, but also eclectic, and worth the time it will take to navigate the building.
A consideration on how to spend your time.
As with any touristy adventure, how you spend your time was probably considered in advance. Time can be a limited commodity for a great many people, and sites need to be seen.
I always find it better to not do this! Being an itinerary-driving traveler does an injustice to most of the places you go. I like to plan little, and wander a great deal. All of Greece is excellent for my type of tourism. There is so much to see and experience that isn’t included in any of the guidebooks. Wandering side streets and lingering in street side bars adds as much to a satisfying experience as staring at statues in museums does. That’s strictly my opinion (obviously), but I find most stories that people have about travel after returning home, don’t involve standing in crowds at a museum. Just slow down and chill a little bit. You’ll like the experience it provides.
Great weather, great people, and a deep historical culture to explore, Heraklion is definitely worth the time and effort it takes to get there.
I had an excellent time just hanging out, without an agenda. Drinking a little beer and eating gyros. Hahahahaha
It really is a good island, and it lived up to all the pre-travel hype. I suggest you go!
Now get out there, after the Corona virus leaves us alone, go explore an island or two!
I suppose most people think of Santorini as a Greek Island covered by whitewashed houses. That’s what most all the travel pictures show. That’s pretty much what I thought of it before I ventured there.
It turns out that the island of Santorini, potential home of the lost city of Atlantis, ancient volcanic caldera responsible for the demise of the Minoan civilization, historic holder of volcanic covered cities, or fancy blue-capped whitewashed buildings is something else; it’s a major cruise ship stop! I mean an Aegean primary cruise ship stop. Multiple cruise ships at a time tie up inside the calm waters of the caldera, and unleash thousands of day-tripping t-shirt shopper on the island one tender boat at a time.
If this last bit is all you know of the island, that’s actually really sad. The island, apart from the irritating throng of cruisers, is a lazy, sleepy place. Small towns cling precariously to volcanic slopes, each having its own vibe. The people are quite enjoyable and welcoming. And the entertainments are easy enough to find. After the tenders take all the cruise people away, the island turns into a quiet and fantastical Greek Island, exactly as one would expect it to.
Getting to the island.
Getting to the island is easy! You can chose either water or air options. The island is serviced by the cruise ship industry, and by a host of ferry lines. The ferries and cruise ships have different ports, at different parts of the island, but are easy enough to get to by taxi.
Santorini also has an airport. It’s a short flight from several points around the Aegean. I flew in from Athens on a short flight, first thing in the morning. The airport is a sparse affair, and is serviced by taxis and a local bus service. (Don’t depend on the island’s bus service, especially if you have a bunch of luggage.)
The Cruise Ship Business.
Okay, I beat up the cruise ship people at the beginning. If you are not part of the environment they can seem like a plague of locusts. The reality is probably something different.
The cruise ships tie up inside the caldera, below the steep cliffs of Fira, it’s the center of the populated part of the island. An expedient gondola service lifts people from the cruise ship dock up to the edge of Fira town. The gondola also provides a great view of the island’s inside edge. Just go when it’s quiet.
Fira is a tight-woven warren of shops attempting to separate day-tripper’s from their money. And, their good at it! Most people make their way through the streets of shops down to the central bus station. Once there, they either go north to the blue domed churches or south to the ruins and beaches. Many will rent scooters or all terrain vehicles from one of the countless rental shops. (Make sure you have an International Drivers License with you if you plan on renting.) the scooter people zip around recklessly for about half the day, and then return to their ship.
The cruise ship timing is well established on the island. If you work around the swell of people from the ships, you can move around basically unbothered.
Working on Island Time.
Where Athens and the continent have a hurried and somewhat structured feeling to them, the Greek islands do not. I found that Santorini had a feeling akin to the Bahamas or the islands of Thailand. Time is an entity unto itself.
Where the whole place can seem somewhat hurried when the cruise ship crowds are descending down upon the various towns on Thera, when the same big boats pull out the whole thing changes. The island slows down. It becomes quite lazy. People linger and meander. The restaurants tend to let you sit and converse longer, not needing to turn over their tables. Having a drink and watching the sun set is an actual activity to look forward to.
And, it’s fantastic! I mean absolutely fantastic! You can actually feel yourself decompress. And you feel it more, the longer you stay. The long casual walk uphill into town from my little hotel was enjoyable, the light evening breeze cascading down the hillside through the trees and carrying along the fragrance of the fruits. Waiting for the waiter to get done with their conversation before he/she ambles over to the table you chose out of the empty street side arrangement of the restaurant is quite acceptable. Having a second drink after dinner (or breakfast) is perfectly enjoyable.
It’s all good! Once you embrace it, you will enjoy it.
Another thing to consider about working on island time is getting around the island. Travel around the island for your basic traveler comes in two forms.
First, you can rent a scooter or ATV to whiz around the island on. Rental counters are literally everywhere! They may be in even more places than that. Outside of full time rental companies, most every hotel has rentals. A lot of regular shops have them as well. One thing to consider, you’ll need to have an international drivers license to rent something. They get pretty sticky about it too, so take one.
Second, you can take the bus. The bus runs everywhere. It runs pretty consistently. Now, you won’t find any timetables on any websites. The timetable is handwritten. It’s posted at the bus station wall in Fira with a thumbtack. No joke. I actually walked over and took pictures of it for later use. Also, they put everybody on the bus that will fit before it leaves. A gentleman makes his way through the bus and sell ride tickets while underway. You pay cash for the tickets, so keep some coins with you. When the bus is over-full it can take some time to get a ticket. The buses can be like serious third world country overfilled. But, they tend to show up on time, and their cheap.
The List of Things to Do.
Both Fira and Oia are literally build around the shopping experience. Both have a big section of town designated as shopping zones. You can get any of the standard tourist items. Oddly, for being such a magnet for Atlantis conspiracies, you can’t get an Atlantis tshirt (or I couldn’t find one!). That aside, you can find whatever you want. The streets are narrow and crowded, so have some patience and enjoy island time shopping.
There are a plethora of beaches on Santorini. I mean, it is an island after all. There are beaches for all occasions. However, there are three more famous beaches among them. They are somewhat uninspiringly referred to as the red beach, the white beach, and the black beach (which is actually named Perissa Beach but known as the black beach.)
All three of the famous beaches are located along the southern section of the Santorini caldera. Two of them, the red beach and the white beach, can be reached from the southern bus stop (the bus stop for the ruins). The black beach is a little more secluded, and requires a water taxi which is also available at the bus stop.
I took a walk over to the red beach. The trail is sketchy, at best, and winds it’s way across the rock ledges of the water’s edge. It’s not a difficult walk, just narrow and heavily trafficked. The water is refreshing, so it’s worth the walk over to the beach.
Note. Parking around that area is limited. So if you’re traveling by rental scooter or car, you may need to wait a minute or two to get a parking space. People come and go constantly, so it’s not a big deal.
At the southern end of Santorini are the buried ruins of the city of Akrotiri. The ruins date back to when Thera blew its top in the volcanic eruption. Though not buried anymore, they are a nice window into what the place looked like, back in the day.
The ruins are quite easy to get to. The bus that runs to the south end of the island (number 2, I think) has a bus stop right next to the entrance to the archeological complex. From Fira it’s an easy ride.
Today the Akrotiri site is covered by a large roof enclosure. It moderates the heat of the day and gives you an escape from the sun. Inside the exhibition the route around the ruins are laid out in a series of numbered stops. Each stop has large signs in a couple languages explaining individual items of note. It’s easy to traverse just by walking and reading.
Not overly pricey, and easy to reach. I enjoyed the ruins quite well.
The Blue-Domed Buildings
If you’re looking for a scavenger hunt, this is it. You would think a view as internationally known as this would be easy to find. It’s actually not. I’m not going into the turn by turn directions, as many blog sites already have done that. I suggest you look up the path before you go.
Also, the area where you can get a quality picture has limited space. It will inevitably also be swelled with throngs of cruise ship people. Be patient and polite. It’s really that simple.
Now getting to Oia is pretty easy. There is a bus that runs from Fira to Oia fairly regularly. The bus drops off just outside the market area. From there you just head uphill toward the congestion. The Blue Domes are Oia’s big draw. They’re worth the bus ride and scouting trip necessary to find them. After that, and two dozen pictures, Oia is worth an exploration for lunch and souvenirs. Then, you’re back on the bus.
There’s supposedly a famous place on the north side of the island where people go to watch the sun set. I don’t know where it is, because I never went. By that point in the day, I was already drinking. Sorry!
When I arrived on Santorini, I had three whole days to kick around and explore. I literally thought I was going to go insane doing nothing. Once I downshifted to Island time I didn’t want to leave. It was soooooo excellent to not need to be any particular place, at any particular time. Even sitting by the hotel pool drinking ouzo was the best use of my time, if I chose it.
It is such a chill place. The people are very gracious and accommodating. The weather is spectacular. The water was even warm and accepting. It was everything you want an island to be. It was excellent. I highly recommend it. The Greek island of Santorini is absolutely worth a stop.
Now, get out there and find an island experience to enjoy!
There is an ever-growing disconnect between what guide books and travel companies are selling and what tourists end up buying. The hardships and harsh realities of our world effect everything, including the wonders of the world at large. Overpopulation and over-tourism have had impacts (both good and bad) on many cultural areas in the world.
The pressure to keep a tourist attractions pristine versus the pressure of the outside world pushing in around them is a hard thing for many countries to content with. If you travel enough, and by travel I mean non-itinerary non-package travel, you can’t help but notice the downward shift in status to many areas in the last several decades. It’s a sad fact of life on a planet with an ever-increasing population.
The way you think it is.
You come up out of the metro, look at your tourist map you acquired from the hotel (or a thousand other places), fix your view uphill at the Parthenon, and start walking. You turn a corner here, and a corner there, and by complete surprise you round another and run into ruins. White columns stand sturdy in the morning sun telling you of a time when Athens was a mighty city-State. You walk briskly down the little street and peer into the gated area, outlining the space that was once Hadrian’s Library. You read the sign, take a few snaps, and sigh.
The way it is a lot of the time.
You come out of your hotel in the stark light of day (because you got there in the middle of the night, having taken the cheapest flight you could get) and are greeted by a rundown, graffiti covered alleyway that leads to the Main Street. You push on, swearing softly to yourself that you need to start making better hotel choices, and realize that this street isn’t just the local paint spot. You turn the corner and the breakdown of society continues on, completely robbing the next street of any value. You bust out of of this gauntlet of urban decay, hoping to find the central square by the metro in better states. When you reach the Main Street, the traffic is so congested that you just walk between the car. The locals give you that annoyed tourist look, but you kind of don’t care at this point, because the touts in the square have already seen you and are ready to try and sell you bunches of crap you don’t want. You sigh, realizing you only have three more days of this, and keep trudging toward the graffiti-covered sign arrowing your way toward the Parthenon.
A random street in Athens, Greece. May, 2019.
The idea behind over-tourism.
The idea of over-tourism has been around for a considerable amount of time. Places like Athens, Rome, and Venice have long been complaining about the problems that it brings with it.
To be honest, I don’t think that there’s a fix for it. With ever-increasing populations of people that have the ability and the means to go abroad the situation can really do nothing but get worse. What one can do is adjust to new realities.
The first suggestion is about timing. I mentioned it a couple times in the last post about being at the venue before it opened to get in without crowds. The majority of the tourists these days travel in an organized group; bus trips, cruise ships adventures, day tour groups, and the like. These groups have almost universally predictable schedules. They appear between 9-10 in the morning, and retire about 4 in the afternoon. Working on either side of this time block will help the single or couples traveling independently to have a better experience.
Second suggestion is also about timing. I tend to travel on the shoulder season. This is especially true in Western Europe, as it reduces prices considerably. The mass of the population travels during warm season or cold season (beach or ski season). There are sometimes limited hours or limited options in lodging during the shoulder season, but the lack of crowds more than makes up for that. I’m completely convinced of this.
Below are two pictures to summarize what a difference 2 hours can make at a major attraction. (While in Madrid, I planned wrong and literally left because of the huge lines at the Palace. I returned the next day and had a very nice experience.)
Things you were told never to do that are now perfectly acceptable.
There is an axiom that I learned many years ago. You never discuss politics or religion while drinking. Truer words have never been spoken. Well, up until a couple years ago, anyway. With the over-population of the tourist world, and the advent of global media, some of the rules have loosened. I’ve had some fabulous political conversations in bars, religious conversations in churches, and tourist conversation with taxi drivers. People in other places aren’t immune to the global situation, and can be genuinely curious about the reality of situations in other parts of the world (as opposed to the distorted views presented by the media).
My suggestion, just go into these conversations gently and honestly. You’ll find them extremely rewarding. (I had a fantastic conversation about Geo-politics with the guy at the front desk of my hotel. It was fact based and timely. He had come to Athens from one of the islands, and had insights that I wasn’t going to hear on any tv network.)
Okay, I realize that sections of this were an over-dramatization of the realities of life. I also realize that I’ve kind of been picking on Athens, and not spreading the joy around Europe. Most European cities have these problems, to one degree or another. Not only Europe, but north and South America as well.
There’s no real fix for the issues that present themselves, other than limiting the amount of tourism (which some cities and countries are already looking at) or cutting the global population back down to realistic numbers (which probably isn’t going to happen). The days of undiscovered ruins and un-crowded archeological sites are a thing of the past. My best advice is to study the place you want to go, and go when it seems that other people aren’t going. Off-peak traveling, and end of day museums stops may help you have a better travel experience.
*****To be fair*****
I have to say that I loved Athens. Once I looked past all the graffiti and people doing drugs in alleyways, there was a host of things to do and experiences to be had. The food and beer scene was excellent. Their ruins and museums are well-kept, and world-class. And the people, once you stop to talk with them, are warm and engaging. Try and look part the problems, and see the true essence of a place. It will help you have a better time. Just sayin…..
I think it’s safe to say that everyone knows where Athens is. It’s such an enormous seat of history and myth that it still demands a place among the great stops in the world of travel.
I have personally been wanting to hit up Athens ever since I started reading Greek Mythology. It’s one of those iconic places. It’s sights are (still) world class. It’s food is fantastic. And, it’s people are very, very Greek.
Of Greece, Athens is the place where it all comes to a focus. This last statement is true of all things Greece. The good, the bad, and the ugly. The cultural, and the political. It’s all in Athens for the taking.
Getting to Athens.
Once again, everyone knows where the city is, especially the travel industry. All major airlines have a route there. You can get there by ferry, and by train. You can also drive, if you choose.
I chose to fly in. I caught a flight out of Geneva to the Athens International Airport. The airport is on the outskirts of the city (a trend for major airports in Europe), but is easy enough to transit through. The metro system has a direct connection to the city center, which makes late arrivals manageable. Taxis, and a city bus are also options. I chose the metro train, as it had a stop close by my hotel.
If you’ve never been to Athens before, do some research before just diving in. The nicer tourist parts of the city aren’t necessarily where you think they are. Areas around major tourist attractions (normally a prime hotel area in most European cities) can not be the best areas for unseasoned travelers. I stayed in the seedier part of the city, and though I had a marvelous time, it’s not the spot for first-timers or older, more cautious tourists.
Getting Around the City.
Walk. It’s pretty much that simply. Athens isn’t massive. It’s significant ruins and museums are all congested in and around the middle of the city. The city is quite vertical for Europe, so you will want to pace yourself. It’s not strolling through the countryside here, it’s urban adventuring. You’ll burn off the calories by the end of the day.
For the outlying museums, ferry ports, and other such items, the metro will get you where you want to go. The metro train does have a daily time schedule and doesn’t run continuously. If you have an early connection, set up a pickup from your hotel, just to be safe. I had an early flight, so I had my hotel set up a transfer to the airport. It worked out wonderfully, and without added anxiety.
The Major Sites.
Athens, like Rome, is replete with stuff to look at. There are layers of history in the city. All of them still vying for space on the world stage.
With too many things to chose from, I chose the pieces I found to be the most interesting to me. Guide books are filled with expansive lists of stops, all of them have their due. These are the ones I enjoyed most.
The Acropolis is the preeminent, must-see item in Athens. Fortunately, you can see it from just about anywhere. It sits well above the remainder of the city, so walk in the general direction of the hill and signs will get you the rest of the way.
Two words of caution. It fills up and never empties, so be there before the gates open (to be first in) or you’re going to be lost in a sea of other people. And, the ticket price ain’t cheap! They know you’re gonna pay, so use the multiple attraction pass and save a little cash.
As for the state and stateliness of the ruins overlooking the city. It’s exactly what you’re going to be expecting. Even in its ruined state, it’s awe inspiring.
After you have seen it up close, make sure to hang out in the market square one evening while you’re there. The whole complex gets lit up in multicolored lighting after dark. It’s pretty cool to see.
When you look down from the Acropolis and wonder what the well-preserved temple below is, that’s the Agora. A cheaper, and (I think) wholly better cultural experience.
More than a single temple, the Agora is a whole complex of temples and buildings. Their state ranges from semi-well preserved to ruins, and there are remnants of every kind to examine. A small exhibit/museum at its middle displays the important pieces.
The Agora is well shaded, and can represent a nice rest from the heat, especially after you have walked down from the Acropolis. It’s well worth your time.
Church of the Holy Apostle.
Located in a quiet corner of the Agora, the church is a marvelously intact structural. There are many tiled frescos in the 10th century structure, but the inside of the dome is my favorite.
The inside of the church is otherwise sparsely decorated, beholding the Greek Orthodox style, but it is in definite contrast to the older temples that surround it.
The National Archeological Museum
As you would expect, the National Archeological Museum is the one stop for everything old and Greek. The collection is expansive and consumes several floors of a massive building out and away from the major tourist sites. The metro will get you close to the museum, and a short walk will finish it off.
Again, like the Acropolis, plan on being there when the doors open. The museum draws huge crowds and bus tour groups. If you aren’t first in line, you may not necessarily enjoy the experience (as much).
The city is a great many things. It’s congested, crowded, seriously over-populated, over-touristed, dirty, graffiti covered, and loud. It’s also old, historied, friendly, easy to access, contains minimal travel barriers, has awesome food, and good drinks.
In a city that is as stretched at the seams as Athens is, one needs to look for the good. There is plenty to find. If you make an attempt to avoid the crowds, eat and drink local (think side streets), and turn a blind eye to the obvious crime problems, you’re going to have a good time.
Athens, in a great many ways, is a poster child for what is happening to many old European cities. You can hate it or your can deal with it. In the end, the Greek people will turn the tide of opinion in your mind. They’re great people and are proud of their history. Go see them. You’ll enjoy the experience.
Statue of a Greek Soldier protecting the entrance to the Military Museum in Athens, Greece. Circa May, 2019
Now get out there! Go see what the world has to offer.
When I was making plans for the European summer experience, the second place I wrote down was The Matterhorn. I blame this on growing up with Bugs Bunny.
It wasn’t until I started looking at how to get there that I came to learn about the town of Zermatt. A small little mountain town dedicated to the mountain lifestyle, conveniently situated at the foot of the mountain. It seemed the right spot to head toward.
Zermatt turns out to be a fantastic little town. A basically car free collection of hotels and shops, with hiking trails and chair lifts that leave right from town. Though designed around the 365 day a year skiing business, it has many items to offer summer sport seekers. It is also a Mecca for tourists just excited to get a look at the mountain. People like me. There’s a fair amount of upscale options, and a goodly amount of cheaper backpacker options for hotel, bar scene, and shopping.
Getting Into The Mountains.
Unless you have a car and some experience driving in the Alps, you’re taking the train. The shuttle train runs from a connection in Visp up-up-up hill to its termination in Zermatt. Since Zermatt is a car-free Town, if you drive in you’ll need to park your car in Tasch and take the train the remainder of the way. You can also get a taxi out of Tasch, if that’s more to your liking. Just don’t overthink it and take the train.
The charm of a place like Zermatt come in the form of its proposed detachment from society. It’s small. It’s charming. You walk where you want to go. The climate, even in May, is brisk.
The center of the town is a warren of small streets, tightly packed with shops and hotels. A small mountain stream transects the middle of town and allows you to get your bearing, when needed. A church, and two cemeteries also occupy the middle of town, reminding everyone that the Matterhorn is more for climbing than skiing.
A museum that covers Zermatt’s sorted history occupies a subterranean section under the middle of the main town area. For a small town, there is enough to see and do to keep someone pleasantly distracted for a couple days.
The mountain is best viewed from the far end of town. Though the buildings in town are necessarily small, the tight confines of the streets make the best views just outside of town by the chairlifts. That being said, you can see the mountain from almost everywhere in town.
If I get the chance I plan on returning to Zermatt. It’s mountain charm is invasive and the people are quite friendly, considering the tourist levels. If you find yourself traveling through the Swiss Alps, think about giving Zermatt a try. If for no other reason than to get a good picture of the mountain, and an afternoon drink by the fire.
Have fun. Go find new places.
The bullfights in Madrid happen throughout the warmer months. Festival season (from around May) sees bullfights every day, where the remainder of the summer they are weekly events.
The Bullfights in Spain are very much a cultural event. Attendance ranges from young couples and family, to the older sections of the population. It can be date night, and escape, or a place for a gathering of old friends.
An evening at the Bullring is a formal affair. The locals dress for the occasion. If you rush back to your hotel and drag the best clothes out of your backpack, as I did, you will find yourself underdressed. Fear not, the local may look at you funny, but they accept you nevertheless.
The Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, known locally as Las Ventas, is located in the northeastern section of Madrid’s city center. Inaugurated in June, 1931, it is the heart of bullfighting in Madrid. A large, open air venue, it has a capacity of almost 24,000 people.
Consuming all of Plaza 1, it’s a purpose built facility. The venue is serviced by both the local bus routes and the metro system. A metro stop at the plaza provides direct access to the Bullring.
The Bullring has a free flowing feel and numerous access points. There is no real need to arrive in advance to get to your seat. People show up continuously, throughout the experience. The venue empties just as effortlessly.
Getting Your Tickets
There are several different online sites that provide tickets to the various bullfights. The venue also has an online sales portal available.
If you’re in Madrid, I recommend going straight to the box office at the venue. There are different ticket prices and options, and the people at the box office can give you current information. The tickets for the evening I was there ranged from $20.00 to the mid $200.00s. My ticket ended up costing $42.00.
Spanish is the language of the staff, so if you don’t speak Spanish it gets a little more complicated. Don’t let that trouble you though. Getting tickets ends up being the same as getting dinner or anything else. You smile and go slowly, it’ll work itself out.
My evening’s program consisted of three matadors. Each matador fight three bulls, resulting in nine actual bullfights.
Much like baseball in the US, or Formula 1 in Europe, the bullfights do come with a program. It gives general information and statistics about each matador, and the statistics of each bull. The program is written in Spanish, but can also just be a nice event souvenir.
A General Idea Of What’s Coming
while the initial crowds are taking their seats, the grounds crew set down the caulk lines in the ring floor and finishes general sand grooming.
The evening’s affairs then start with a entrance procession. All of the matadors, horsemen, and extra all come out and are greeted by the crowd in a parade of individuals.
After the entrance procession is complete, everyone takes their places and readies themselves. The first matador Of the evening will stride to the center of the Bullring and present himself to the crowd. The matador’s charismatic showmanship and bravado is greeted by applause from the crowd. When applause are complete, the first bull of the evening is released into the Bullring and the bullfights begin.
With three main matadors and three rounds of bulls to be fought, the bullfights go into the dark of the evening hours. Starting (pretty promptly) at 7pm, my evening at the bullfights concluded about 9:30pm.
What To Expect
Blood. Blood in the sand is what you should expect. Lots of blood.
After the bull gets run around the ring by the assistant matadors to get its adrenaline up, the bull is then engaged by two armored horsemen who spear the bull with hardwood long-handled spears. Once speared by the horsemen, a series of small spears from the matador are used to really get the bull’s blood flowing. After a sufficient amount of time, the lead matador skewers the bull with a sword sunk hilt-deep into the bull’s neck.
It should be noted that if the matador misses sinking the sword on the first try or produces a shot to the bull causing excessive pain to the animal, it is met by the crowds with rejecting howls and shouts. The crowds aren’t there to see the bull suffer needlessly due to an unprofessional matador.
Sword in place, the bull is allowed to thrash about until the blood loss topples him. Once he is deemed to be no longer able to attack, another man approaches the bull and give it a coup de grace by cutting the animal’s throat.
Once dispatched, a team of horses comes out and drags the dead bull out of the Bullring. A grounds crew comes in next and rakes the sand to cover the blood and make the ring ready for the next fight. Sometimes, the blood cleanup can take time. There can be a lot of blood.
I’ll start this by saying that I don’t have a gentle heart. Whether it’s human, animal, or oak tree, if it needs killing then kill it. However, if it doesn’t, then you should probably just let it be. (You’ll usually just make it mad.)
I understand the draw of the bullfights. It’s the draw of any pugilistic sport. The application of man against an oppositional force. That being said, if you aren’t accustom to the impact of such events, you’ll find it off-putting. I’m comfortable with combative sports, as most westerners are, and still found it to be excessive. After about the 4th bullfight, I was out rightly rooting for the bull.
The structure of the event overwhelmingly tilts the odds in favor of the matador. The bull stands little chance in being the victor. The best it can hope for is to kill the matador before it’s dispatched.
It’s a natural leap for how a society can slowly transition from the spectacle of the bullfights to the wonder of the colosseum. Even the events of the Roman Colosseum started with animal fights. I’m not equalizing the two. I’m just saying that I can see how you could go from one to the next.
The Bullring is a centerpiece of life in Madrid. It is something that, I think, should be experienced to appreciate all that is Madrid. You are going to have difficulty finding a similar experience in today’s society. I say, go do it. But don’t go into it with preconceived ideas. That will do it, and the people of Madrid, an injustice.
Leave your western notions behind, go have an experience like no other. The most important thing about traveling is to be granted the opportunity to form your own opinions based upon actual experiences, not what someone else told you to believe.
Now, go. Go have new experiences. Expand your boundaries.
Madrid, the capital of Spain, has been one of those places I have wanted to visit for a long time. I’m not sure why it’s hasn’t happened before now. The few times I’ve been to Spain in the past it has always been problematic to add another stop. So when I decided to travel across Europe this summer (2019), it was one of the first places I marked down.
Madrid is a big, vibrant, chaotic city, fully equal to any big-ticket city in Europe. Where the Spanish countryside is sleepy, the capital is awash with people and spectacles. The highlights of the city are many, so you need to decide what you want to do before you head out. Having some sketchy idea of what you want to do will definitely help your planning. It is very easy to stop at a corner bar for a beer and to think about where you want to go next, and spend several hours watching the city crowds come and go. It happened to me in the plazas.
Getting to Madrid.
Getting to Madrid is easy. The international airport hosts all major airlines and is a primary connection point for the country of Spain, and many stops in Europe. It also has a well-connected central rail station that welcomes travels from all over the Iberian peninsula to the city each day.
The rail system around Madrid gets. Crowded with long-haul passengers, so reservations for most trips are a must. Don’t wait to get them the day of your journey, as you probably won’t be able to. This happened to me leaving out. I had grown complacent with the easy rail travel of the Spanish countryside and waited to do my reservation. Needless to say, I didn’t get one. Lesson learned. It didn’t happen on the remainder of the trip. I came into Madrid on rail, and went out on an airplane.
Getting Around the City.
in any European city worth its salt, the word here is Metro.
The metro is the fastest, most reasonably priced way to get around the city. The network is extensive and the trains run on time.
The city also has the usual bus service and taxi industry. They too are prevalent about the city. I tend toward the metro, so I didn’t use these other modes.
Some Highlights From Madrid.
The Royal Alcazar Of Madrid was founded in the 9th century. In 1660, it was turned into The Royal Palace.
The Royal Palace is a spectacular structure worthy of the title. It lacks formal grounds, but has an excellent reviewing yard at its main entrance. A remnant Of The Alcazar days, no doubt. The interior is still richly appointed.
The Palace draws large crowds. Look for it’s opening time, the day you choose to visit, and be there early. The line forms before opening. There is also a speed line for those that already have tickets (read bus tours), so they slow your entry as well. Just save the headache and plan accordingly.
The Prado Gallery
Where there is more than one major gallery in Madrid, the Prado Museum is the one you’re looking for. It is the main Spanish art museum in the country, and houses an outstanding collection. The collection includes, among other things, a real Mona Lisa. (No. They won’t let you take pictures of it.)
Again, the Prado draws large crowds. Plan ahead, be there when the doors open or before.
Many will say that the Las Ventas Bull Ring, in Madrid, is the center of the sport in the country. That statement is hard to argue. I’m not going to say much about it, as the next post will cover it in more detail.
Once you realize you’re not getting into the Palace, you turn and take in the massive church behind you. You think, “that must be open, right?” And, it is. And, it’s a good choice.
La Almundena Cathedral is a great and imposing structure. It has a design that masters interior space. The cathedral doesn’t give you a medieval vibe, because it isn’t. The building construction was only started in 1897. This late start gives the cathedral a decidedly modern feel.
Along with the cathedral, the complex also houses a nice museum, and a spectacular crypt under the structure. You enter the crypt from a street-level entrance on the far side of the complex. The crypt is active, and still in-use as a burial place. It is an amazing site to visit. The sculpture of some of the burial placements is simply amazing.
The crypt does get a lot of traffic. Make sure you act appropriately, and be respectful of your surroundings.
The Plaza Mayor
The Plaza Mayor is one of Madrid’s main squares. It is also an excellent place to people watch.
Located in the central city area, the plaza is a huge open area within a warren of twisty streets. The central area is open brickwork, with tightly packed cafes and restaurants ringing three sides. Starting in the later part of the afternoon (say 5pm-ish) stroll in and find a seat where you can see the action. The plaza hosts everything from rock concerts, to outdoor art festivals, to people just gathering to converse. There is always something to see.
The plaza, like any other tourist draw area, can be criticized for being too pricey. It’s true, prices do increase as soon as your feet break the plaza’s threshold. But, the people watching makes up for the price gouging.
Take Time Out For Street Music.
I can honestly say that I’ve never really been too big a fan of buskers. I don’t dislike them in any fashion, I just don’t really pay much attention to them. I drop coins to the people jamming in the metro, but the people out on the streets seem to get lost in it all, most of the time.
That being said, Madrid is an excellent place to catch a street performance! The city has lots of little nooks and corner areas that seem to be quiet enough for the musicians to do their thing. There is everything from the standard college-aged kid with a secondhand guitar to five and six piece groups doing classical pieces. The range of music available on the street is fabulous. You should make an effort to seek some of it out while you’re there.
A Shout Out to Our Feathered Friends.
Madrid was the first urban center I came to where there was enough of a population to attract the ever city-savvy pigeon. The fellow pictured here joined me for dinner one night in Plaza Mayor. Something about pigeons always makes me contented. Not sure why?
world class art, world class architecture, easy access, a deep history, easy to get around, plenty of hotel options, and every kind of food are available in Madrid. Why would you not go? Why did I wait so long to go? You should go. I want to go back! It’s just a great city.
Now, get out there. Go explore a great city!
The municipality of Burgos is located in the northeastern section of Spain. Burgos is the capital of the Burgos area, within the autonomous area of Castille, and It holds about 180,000 people.
The town is beautifully situated and has a charm equal with other medieval towns in Europe. In summer, when I was visiting, the weather was wonderful.
The city is located in the northern Basque Country of Spain. As near as I can figure, there are three good ways to get there. The first, and probably the most utilized, would be cars. Get yourself a rental and be on down the highway.
The second would be public transport. The city is serviced by both trains and buses that criss-cross the region. Depending upon time of day and starting destination, you’ll probably need a reservation for your train ride. Spanish rail has multiple runs a day that pass through the city. (I came and left on the train.)
The bus station is located centrally, on the south side of the river. I don’t know much about the bus schedules, but after talking with several people who came in to town that way it appears that there are also multiple bus times as well. You can check with the region bus transit website for more info.
Your third option, also quite popular, is waking. Burgos is another one of those towns with a prominent spot on the Camino Francis pilgrimage route. As such, it sees a large percentage of travelers enter and exit on foot each year.
The Burgos International Airport opened in 2008. I confess I don’t know much about this option either, but information should be available on the city’s webpage.
Getting Around Town.
The city is really two different cities. Like most all ancient tourist places, there’s is a historic old city and a new urban city. Burgo’s new section wraps itself around the eastern and southern sides predominantly. The old city is very walkable, and quite congested. If you coming to/from the train station on the north east side, a taxi would probably be best.
There was no marked bus system that I noticed, but there was a lot of bus traffic, so there very well may be one. This is also a big enough population where Uber or Lyft would do quite well. As I don’t use either, I don’t have any information to pass on.
Things To Do And See.
Here things become a contrast between the old and the new. The old is very old, and the new is very new.
The Castillo de Burgos, on the north side of the river, is the medieval town fortress. Though today it’s a ruin, with ongoing archeological excavations still taking place, it’s well worth making the steep uphill climb to the top of the fortress mount overlooking the majority of the town. It offers great views, especially of the cathedral.
The Burgos Cathedral is also on the north side of the Arlanzon River. It cannot be understated that the Burgos Cathedral is the spiritual and tourist center of the medieval city section. Legitimately, it should be called a cathedral complex. The area contains the cathedral, something like 5 other major churches, a couple museums, and a monetary. There isn’t a spot where you can take a photo of the whole cathedral area, even from the towers of the Castillo.
Started in 1221, the cathedral took several hundred years to build. The interior of the cathedral is overwhelming in its grandeur. I had seen a lot of ornate churches before getting to Burgos. I was glad I took the time to visit the cathedral. It is quite extraordinary.
It is also utterly overrun with tourists. The heavy load of tourists puts a strain on the otherwise nice church people. Plan ahead and get there early. This will help with the crowds of people somewhat.
Where the old is very old, and World Heritage level, the new also has its draw. The Museum Of Human Evolution is a fully engaging and well curated modern museum. Along with all of the standard exhibits one would expect for a museum based on the growth of the human condition, it also covers several of the areas own archeological excavations.
Located on the south side of the Arlanzon River, it sits in a modern building built specifically for housing the museum. It gets lots of traffic, so expect lots of other people.
with world-class attractions, good hotels, good restaurants, and a very cool vibe, Burgos is worth your time. It gets a lot of tourists, so you need to be prepared for that. Especially, if you’re coming off the tranquility of the Camino.
I’m glad I stopped. You will be too. Now … get out there. Go find cool new places and stuff!
Back in the early 2000s, I took a trip over to Pamplona and ran with the bulls. (I don’t really remember the year without looking it up. Some of it was a bit of a blur.) The San Fermin Festival was a fantastic experience. However, I was drinking for most of it or running away from crazy bovines. I admit that I didn’t spend much time exploring the city.
So when I decided to take a shot at the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage this year, I couldn’t seem to find a better place to start it than Pamplona. The city is old and has a spot directly on the French Way. This starting point would give me a chance to see a city I was once at, but managed to miss out on.
1. Getting There.
Getting to the old city, buried deep in the Basque countryside of Northern Spain, is surprisingly easy. Spain has a well-established public transport system. Airlines, trains, and the bus system all service Pamplona. I caught a flight out of Madrid, for a short hop over to the city.
The city’s regional airport is small, but well maintained, and services several low cost carriers. It’s a two or three room building, with minimal amenities. It’s serviced on the arrivals side by some taxis and the local city bus.
2. Getting Around Town.
There is a central bus service that runs around Pamplona. It has several routes and you can purchase your ride ticket from the driver. After that, you can really walk the main city quite easily. The city is well signed and marked. The old city center isn’t excessively large, and is easy to navigate.
Most all of the must-see historic sights are located in the city’s old town center. Pamplona’s center is a collection of narrow streets connecting squares and plazas.
3. Places To Stay.
Pamplona is replete with good hotel choices. Since it has a university, they are almost a prerequisite. There is everything from hostels to the big chain hotels. I prefer the mom and pop places myself.
All of the major internet hotel sites cover the city. I found a great locally-run hotel with bar, in the middle of the old city center, on Booking.com with no problems.
As far as getting to your new hotel goes, I would say this. If your hotel is outside the city proper, a taxi is going to be a good option. If you’re in the city, the bus system will get you close enough to walk it. Pamplona is a well-established location for starting the Camino pilgrimage. As such, they are used to having big influxes of travelers showing up with baggage, and needing a way to their hotel. The bus is cheap and easy enough to navigate.
4. Things To See And Do.
The city Cathedral, and the section of ramparts the secure its backside, are must-see items. There is also a lovely park below the rampart walls that is quite enjoyable, even on a rainy day.
There are numerous museums and old structures in the city that are worth your time. Most all guidebooks cover the must-see items. Even the Camino de Santiago guidebook that I used while there called out the A-list stops.
There are many small squares scattered around the old town center. All of them have some iteration of the outside cafe. They are excellent people watching areas. The squares. are also great places to stop and take a break. The city of Pamplona is built on a slight incline. You will burn some calories walking around all day.
To be honest, I spent a lot of my time walking around the warren of tightly woven street. Drinking in cafes, looking at stuff in shops, and generally absorbing the vibe.
Small city square, located just to the west of the Pamplona Cathedral. A little wet from the rain, but very picturesque. Circa May, 2019.
I highly enjoyed my second run at the city. It has all of the charms you expect from a European city, and a sleepy Attitude that harkens back to its older days as a fortress town. I think you will enjoy a day or two wandering its streets and drinking a beer or a nice glass of the local wine. If you’re up in the Basque corner of Spain, do yourself a favor a check it out.
Now, get out there. Go see someplace new!
Now that I’ve had a little time to decompress from the last European trip, it’s probably time to get back to the blogosphere and continue talking about the wandering around. I’m going to do this first part by a quick discussion of cost. The actual cost vs what I thought it was going to cost when I left America. It can be summed up as “Yes, I spent too much. But, I had a good time!”
The Upfront Cost.
I spent a bunch of money getting ready to take the trip. Most all of the expense proved out to be the usual.
The upfront cost included my intercontinental plane ticket from Austin to London. I chose London simply because it was the cheapest ticket I could find at the time. I purchased two Eurail Passes; both multi-day, multi-country passes. There were two passes needed based upon my initial travel plans. I bought a ticket for the 2019 Austrian Grand Prix, as I planned on attending the race. I also bought a festival ticket for Ultra Europe that was eventually tossed in the trash, as I changed travel plans along the way, but that happens.
The logistics of getting around and where to stay were all figured out on-the-fly. I work best that way. Airfare, train tickets, festival ticket, and race ticket combined cost me $2100.00. It went something like Airfare (Delta) $605.00 for roundtrip ticket, rail passes at $1,175.00, $130.00 for the festival ticket, and $190.00 (with shipping) for the race ticket. I like to remove the upfront costs from the travelling money. It allows me to reduce my daily math (am I running out of money math). Let’s look at that now.
The Travel Money.
The amount of travel money available basically came the remains of the budgeted money minus the upfront costs. I started my travel plan with $19,000.00, which was supposed to last for four months of travel. factoring out the $2,100.00 already spent, the budget planned worked out somewhat like the following.
Upfront Costs: $2,100.00
40 Days walking the Camino de Santiago (40×50.00/day): $2,000.00
89 Days backpacking around Europe (89×150.00/day): $13,350.00
Obviously, this was a best-case scenario, based upon my math skills and extremely optimistic sense of humor. Now, let’s continue.
The Achilles Heel.
My optimistic plan was based upon my desire to see and do numerous things while in Europe. It was also based upon the idea that I was going to do what I said I was going to do. (If you’re an active reader of this blog then you already know my plan goes out he window. LOL!!)
The first weak link in my plan is in the planning. I planned to walk the Camino Pilgrimage at the beginning due to weather conditions and its low cost per day. I understood in doing this that, if I did not use all of the Camino days actually on the Camino, this would shorten my overall travel time. It would also mean that the cost per day would go up before I planned on it doing so.
The second weak link was in the travel path and lodging. The path laid out beyond the Camino was based upon getting to where I wanted to go with the lowest possible cost of travel. And, once there, Finding the cheapest lodging available wherever I happened to be. This plan involved extensive use of the rail passes, and limited low-cost air carriers for plane tickets. Lodging was going to be in the form of Air BNB, low budget hotels and some nights on the train. This, if used properly, would allow me to budget my money.
Truth vs Fiction.
I had a well thought-out plan, and a fist full of money. I was ready to be off on a grand adventure. Well, that was what I thought. What I really had was a adequately assembled bad idea, and enough money to get out of the country. Okay, it wasn’t as bad as all that. Let’s just say that things went off-plan.
It took about nine days for things to come apart. It took two days to travel from Austin, to London, to Madrid, to Pamplona, to start the Camino de Santiago. It took seven days of walking the Camino for me to decide that it wasn’t for me. 9 days into 60 days, and the plan had gone astray. (I don’t call this blog the I-Stray-Blog for no reason at all!) Going into the backpacking section of the trip automatically adjusted the path of the remaining section of the trip. It also shortened the total time dramatically.
The next thing that went wide was lodging. Instead of heavily utilizing Air BNB and lowest-cost budget hotels, I booked in at the lowest ‘decent’ hotel on booking.com. This slight change in decision making did a good job of increasing cost. Also, due to the change in travel path brought on by the change in schedule, more legs went from train travel to airline travel. This added unplanned airfare costs to the overall budget. (Yes, I already possessed the rail tickets.)
So, what happened? Well, I used the Austrian Grand Prix as my new end date, and dumped everything that came along afterward. Why? Mainly, I really wanted to go to the race. This changed the end date from 4 September to about 5 July.
The effect? Sixty days on the Camino and 89 days backpacking turned into 9 days on the Camino and 57 days of backpacking. One small change and a few loose money spending decisions changed the plan greatly. The real summer trip around Europe looked something like this:
Upfront Costs: $2,100.00
9 Days on the Camino (9x$50.00/day): $450.00
57 Days of backpacking (57x$231.57/day): $13,200.00
Leftover money: $1,900.00
Thoughts About The Plan.
Now, if you noticed that real per-day number and wondered WTH? So did I.
Did I have a great time? Absolutely! Did I see what I wanted to see? At all of the places I managed to go to, Yes! Was it all worth it? Hell Yes! But, did I waste a bunch of money? Well, that depends on how you define waste. The money spent does line up directly with the amount of fantastic times I had travelling, so I say that it was all money well-spent.
This math experiment did force me to consider how I travel in the future. Knowing that I spent more money per-day than I thought I would is important information. Next time, I’ll plan more money upfront. more money upfront will give more of a buffer when things go sideways. It will also allow me to stay. Because, well, I’m probably going to stray.
Following this, I’m going to get back to travel. We will talk about the trip, the stops, and the times had along the way.
Now, go. Get out there. Have great adventures!